{"id":14051,"date":"2015-03-17T18:14:18","date_gmt":"2015-03-17T17:14:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.fjala.info\/?p=3269"},"modified":"2015-03-17T18:14:18","modified_gmt":"2015-03-17T17:14:18","slug":"ne-bukurite-e-kryeqytetit-te-veriut","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fjala.info\/2009-2015\/ne-bukurite-e-kryeqytetit-te-veriut\/","title":{"rendered":"N\u00cb BUKURIT\u00cb E KRYEQYTETIT T\u00cb VERIUT"},"content":{"rendered":"

NDUE LAZRI<\/strong><\/p>\n

– Sh\u00ebnime udhetimi nga Sanpiet\u00ebrburgu<\/em> –<\/p>\n

Kur po afrohej 30-vjetori i martes\u00ebs me bashk\u00ebshorten time, Zhanin, po mendoja p\u00ebr ndonj\u00eb surpriz\u00eb t\u00eb ve\u00e7ant\u00eb. U kujtova q\u00eb n\u00eb vitet e rinis\u00eb son\u00eb t\u00eb dy ishim t\u00eb dashuruar me let\u00ebrsin\u00eb, artin e kultur\u00ebn ruse. Tek lexonim kujtimet e Kadares\u00eb dhe krijimet e tij p\u00ebr ambientet moskovite t\u00eb koh\u00ebs studenteske, por edhe lirikat e poet\u00ebve rus\u00eb me berjozka e ambiente p\u00ebrrallore, apo shikonim pikturat e Rjepinit e baletet e mrekullueshme ruse, shpesh \u00ebnd\u00ebrronim p\u00ebr ndonj\u00eb udh\u00ebtim n\u00eb ato an\u00eb. Por gjer aty guxonim, n\u00eb kufijt\u00eb e \u00ebnd\u00ebrrimit, se n\u00eb koh\u00ebn e regjimit totalitar kap\u00ebrcimi i kufijve ishte nj\u00eb privilegj q\u00eb e dinim se nuk do na p\u00ebrkiste kurr\u00eb.<\/p>\n

\"Ndue<\/p>\n

Por tani, pas 30 vjet martese, kur komunizmi kishte vdekur edhe n\u00eb strofk\u00ebn e tij, n\u00eb ish-Bashkimin Sovjetik, e ne ndodheshim n\u00eb emigrim n\u00eb Itali, ajo \u00ebnd\u00ebrr nuk dukej aq e parealizueshme. Kishim patur k\u00ebnaq\u00ebsin\u00eb t\u00eb vizitonim Barcelon\u00ebn, Parisin, Athin\u00ebn, Montecarlon. E pse t\u00eb mbetej larg \u00ebndrra ruse?\u2026<\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

Ishte ora 20.30 e nj\u00eb mbr\u00ebmjeje fundkorriku, kur arrit\u00ebm n\u00eb aeroportin \u201cPulkovo\u201d t\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburgut. E megjithat\u00eb ishte dit\u00eb. N\u00eb fillim nuk po orientoheshim. Por kur nga kati i 18-t\u00eb i hotelit \u201cAzimut\u201d, n\u00eb breg t\u00eb Fontank\u00ebs,(nj\u00eb deg\u00eb e lumit Neva),vazhdonim t\u00eb shikonim drit\u00eb mbi qytet edhe pasi kishte kaluar mesnata, e kuptuam se kishim t\u00eb b\u00ebnim me fenomenin e Net\u00ebve t\u00eb Bardha, p\u00ebr t\u00eb cilin kishim lexuar dikur n\u00eb nj\u00eb lib\u00ebr t\u00eb Dostojevskit.T\u00eb emocionuar zbrit\u00ebm n\u00eb rrug\u00eb p\u00ebr ta p\u00ebrjetuar m\u00eb mir\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb fenomen. Kishte pak njer\u00ebz, kryesisht turist\u00eb, q\u00eb ashtu si ne filmonin Sanpiet\u00ebrburgun me drit\u00eb natyrore edhe n\u00eb ato or\u00eb t\u00eb vona t\u00eb nat\u00ebs. Praktikisht vet\u00ebm p\u00ebr nja dy or\u00eb intensiteti i drit\u00ebs u ul deri n\u00eb nivelin e muzgut t\u00eb zakonsh\u00ebm europian, pastaj drita e gjall\u00eb u rikthye s\u00ebrish e u b\u00eb dit\u00eb. Nd\u00ebrsa ne l\u00ebviznim rrug\u00ebve, banor\u00ebt e qytetit me siguri flinin. P\u00ebr ata nj\u00eb fenomen i till\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb m\u00eb se i zakonsh\u00ebm.Vet\u00ebm aty – k\u00ebtu na zinte syri ndonj\u00eb rus tek l\u00ebvizte me shishen e votk\u00ebs n\u00eb dor\u00eb. Bile edhe n\u00eb or\u00ebt e para t\u00eb m\u00ebngjesit na q\u00eblloi t\u00eb shikonim ndonj\u00eb prej tyre me shishen tashm\u00eb thuajse t\u00eb boshatisur, tek l\u00ebviznin duke k\u00ebnduar n\u00ebn z\u00eb ato k\u00ebng\u00ebt karakteristike ruse. Nuk mund te them se dehja ishte nj\u00eb fenomen tipik, pasi edhe n\u00eb gjendjen e tyre ata ishin aq t\u00eb kthjell\u00ebt sa t\u00eb mos i hidhnin shishet boshe rrug\u00ebve duke ndotur qytetin, por i linin n\u00eb ndonj\u00eb qoshe ku mund t\u2019i merrnin ata q\u00eb pastronin qytetin.
\nDuke l\u00ebvizur n\u00ebp\u00ebr rrug\u00eb, nj\u00eb gj\u00eb na ra n\u00eb sy menj\u00ebher\u00eb: Ata q\u00eb kan\u00eb nd\u00ebrtuar qytetin nuk e kan\u00eb patur problem hap\u00ebsir\u00ebn. N\u00eb fakt , perandori Pjetri i Madh, me q\u00ebllim kishte thirrur nj\u00eb arkitekt francez, i cili paraqiti nj\u00eb projekt unikal p\u00ebr nd\u00ebrtimin e qytetit. Pjetri i shpjegoi q\u00eb donte t\u00eb nd\u00ebrtonte nj\u00eb qytet me tipare perandoreshe. Dhe arkitekti francez Leblanc u mb\u00ebshtet mbi d\u00ebshirat e k\u00ebrkesat e parandorit n\u00eb hartimin dhe zbatimin e atij projekti q\u00eb ishte baza e Sanpjet\u00ebrburgut t\u00eb sot\u00ebm.
\n\"San
\nT\u00eb gjitha rrug\u00ebt (qoft\u00eb edhe ato m\u00eb t\u00eb voglat) ishin shum\u00eb t\u00eb gjera. Nuk ekzistonte ankthi i parkimit, qoft\u00eb edhe n\u00eb qend\u00ebr t\u00eb qytetit, gj\u00eb q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb incubo n\u00eb vendet per\u00ebndimore, sidomos n\u00eb Itali, ku ne jetojm\u00eb prej vitesh. Bulevardet, shetitoret buz\u00eb Nev\u00ebs e kanaleve t\u00eb tjera t\u00eb saj, sheshet, parqet e shumt\u00eb ishin t\u00eb hap\u00ebsirave marramend\u00ebse. Projektuesit dhe nd\u00ebrtuesit e qytetit kan\u00eb qen\u00eb largpam\u00ebs n\u00eb zgjidhjet urbane aq sa problemi i trafikut edhe p\u00ebr shum\u00eb e shum\u00eb koh\u00eb nuk do t\u00eb ekzistoj\u00eb n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb qytet. Mbase ai i zbatimit t\u00eb rregullave t\u00eb qarkullimit, po, pasi v\u00ebrehej nj\u00ebfar\u00eb kaosi n\u00eb l\u00ebvizje, gati si n\u00eb Napoli, apo n\u00eb Tiran\u00eb, ku p\u00ebrpar\u00ebsin\u00eb e merr ai q\u00eb hyn i pari n\u00eb nj\u00eb kryq\u00ebzim e jo ai q\u00eb i takon sipas rregullave.
\nIdea q\u00eb projektuesit dhe nd\u00ebrtuesit e kan\u00eb patur hap\u00ebsir\u00ebn pa kursim, reflektohet edhe n\u00eb faktin q\u00eb n\u00eb pjes\u00ebn m\u00eb t\u00eb madhe zot\u00ebrojn\u00eb nd\u00ebrtesat e ulta q\u00eb arrijn\u00eb deri n\u00eb 5-6 kate.Nuk ka grata\u00e7iela dhe hap\u00ebsir\u00ebn e zot\u00ebrojn\u00eb kupolat e shumta e t\u00eb praruara, karakteristike p\u00ebr kish\u00ebn ruse dhe supremacin\u00eb e saj, e q\u00eb e t\u00ebrheqin menj\u00ebher\u00eb shikimin dhe v\u00ebmendjen e vizitorit.<\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

M\u00eb p\u00eblqen q\u00eb n\u00eb nisje t\u00eb k\u00ebtij reportazhi mbi Sanpiet\u00ebrburgun t\u00eb ndalem n\u00eb Sheshin e Dekabrist\u00ebve, aty ku ngrihet monumenti i Pjetrit t\u00eb Madh, q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb edhe themelues i k\u00ebtij qyteti.I ngritur n\u00eb at\u00eb shesh t\u00eb madh n\u00eb breg t\u00eb lumit Neva, ai \u00ebsht\u00eb monumenti i par\u00eb skulpturor n\u00eb Rusi.I projektuar dhe realizuar nga skulptori francez Falconet dhe dy ndihm\u00ebs t\u00eb tij, monumenti ishte dhurat\u00eb dhe nderim i ve\u00e7ant\u00eb q\u00eb Katerina e dyt\u00eb,ose Katerina e Madhe e Rusis\u00eb, i b\u00ebnte themeluesit t\u00eb qytetit n\u00eb festimet e nj\u00ebzet vjetorit t\u00eb uljes s\u00eb saj n\u00eb fron,(m\u00eb 7 gusht 1782). Po p\u00ebr her\u00eb t\u00eb par\u00eb n\u00eb realizimin e monumentit nuk u p\u00ebrdor piedestali tradicional, por u muar nj\u00eb mas\u00eb e madhe shk\u00ebmbi (i quajtur shk\u00ebmbi – bubullim\u00eb) dhe u gdhend n\u00eb form\u00ebn e nj\u00eb vale. Mbi t\u00eb u lart\u00ebsua monumenti prej bronxi, q\u00eb u b\u00eb i njohur me emrin \u201cKalor\u00ebsi i bronzt\u00eb\u201d sidomos nga poezia me t\u00eb nj\u00ebjtin titull e Pushkinit, q\u00eb e merr frym\u00ebzimin nga ky monument. Pjetri i Madh \u00ebsht\u00eb konceptuar me veshje t\u00eb thjesht\u00eb. N\u00eb vend t\u00eb shal\u00ebs s\u00eb kalit \u00ebsht\u00eb l\u00ebkura e nj\u00eb kafshe t\u00eb eg\u00ebr. Kurora me dafina n\u00eb kok\u00eb dhe shpata n\u00eb dor\u00eb evokojn\u00eb figur\u00ebn e kryeluft\u00ebtarit q\u00eb \u00e7oi n\u00eb \u00e7lirimin e k\u00ebsaj pjese t\u00eb Rusis\u00eb nga pushtimi i gjat\u00eb suedez. Nd\u00ebrsa dora tjet\u00ebr e shtrir\u00eb p\u00ebrpara, duket sikur \u00ebsht\u00eb orientuar nga ishulli ku ai hodhi themelet e para t\u00eb qytetit. Suedez\u00ebt e quanin at\u00eb \u201cishulli i lepujve\u201d. Pik\u00ebrisht aty Pjetri i Madh nd\u00ebrtoi k\u00ebshtjell\u00ebn e Pjetrit e t\u00eb Palit, pastaj erdhi duke e zgjeruar qytetin n\u00eb t\u00eb dy an\u00ebt e lumit Neva. E quajti k\u00ebshtjell\u00ebn me at\u00eb em\u00ebr, sepse Sh\u00ebn Pjetri \u00ebsht\u00eb mbrojt\u00ebsi i k\u00ebtij qyteti.
\n\"San
\nMe siguri edhe vet\u00eb Pjetri i Madh, me gjith\u00eb vizionin e tij t\u00eb gjer\u00eb, nuk e kishte imagjinuar q\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburgu do t\u00eb kishte nj\u00eb dit\u00eb shtrirjen, bukurin\u00eb dhe magjin\u00eb q\u00eb ka sot. Duhej shieja dhe ambicja artistike e nj\u00eb femre p\u00ebr t\u00eb arritur deri k\u00ebtu. Vepr\u00ebn e tij do ta vazhdonte e bija gazmore, Elisabeta Petrovna. E ndjeshme ndaj bukuris\u00eb dhe fines\u00ebs artistike n\u00eb nd\u00ebrtim, e pajisur me kultur\u00eb, ajo iu kushtua stilit barok dhe gjat\u00eb 20 vjet\u00ebve q\u00eb q\u00ebndroi n\u00eb fron nd\u00ebrtoi kryevepra, t\u00eb cilat ia shtojn\u00eb aq shum\u00eb hijeshin\u00eb ish-kryeqytetit t\u00eb veriut, si\u00e7 quhej n\u00eb ato koh\u00eb. Ajo ftoi n\u00eb oborrin e saj arkitekt\u00eb me talent, n\u00eb mes t\u00eb t\u00eb cil\u00ebve italianin Rastrelli. Nga mendja dhe duart e tij doli nj\u00eb kryevep\u00ebr e arkitektur\u00ebs bot\u00ebrore si Pallati i Dimrit e pastaj plot t\u00eb tjera q\u00eb i kan\u00eb rezistuar koh\u00ebs. K\u00ebtij arkitekti Elisabeta i shprehu edhe nj\u00eb \u00ebndr\u00ebr t\u00eb saj personale: T\u00eb nd\u00ebrtonte manastirin e par\u00eb fem\u00ebror n\u00eb Rusi, ku ajo t\u00eb t\u00ebrhiqej n\u00eb lutje her\u00eb pas here. P\u00ebr k\u00ebt\u00eb zgjodhi nj\u00eb vend t\u00eb bukur n\u00eb rrethinat e pallatit Smolljanij q\u00eb kishte nd\u00ebrtuar i ati. Prandaj edhe manastirit do t\u2019 i jepej emri Smollnij. Arkitekti italian punoi me pasion, me shije e fantazi dhe projektoi nj\u00eb nga nd\u00ebrtesat m\u00eb t\u00eb bukura t\u00eb stilit barok n\u00eb Rusi. Ai kishte planifikuar t\u00eb nd\u00ebrtonte tek ky manastir edhe katedralen m\u00eb t\u00eb lart\u00eb prej 140 metrash. Por punimet u nd\u00ebrpren\u00eb nga e ashtuquajtura Lufta e 7 vjet\u00ebve dhe nga vdekja e vet\u00eb Elizabet\u00ebs, e cila nuk e pa kurr\u00eb t\u00eb realizuar plot\u00ebsisht \u00ebndrr\u00ebn e saj. Vet\u00ebm pas 60 vjet\u00ebsh nga fillimi i punimeve, katedralja u p\u00ebrfundua sipas projektit, por nuk sh\u00ebrbeu kurr\u00eb si manastir fem\u00ebror. Megjithat\u00eb ajo mbetet nd\u00ebr katedralet m\u00eb t\u00eb bukura dhe \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb rrezatim i v\u00ebrtet\u00eb i gjenis\u00eb n\u00eb arkitektur\u00eb. N\u00eb fasadat e saj sikur shkrihen ngjyrat e kthjellta t\u00eb qiellit me ato t\u00eb ujrave t\u00eb Nev\u00ebs, n\u00eb nj\u00eb transparenc\u00eb gati kristaline, mbi t\u00eb cilat ngrihen kat\u00ebr kupola, si t\u00eb nd\u00ebrtuara n\u00eb qelq t\u00eb brisht\u00eb e t\u00eb praruar.
\nPor shk\u00eblqimin m\u00eb t\u00eb madh Sanpiet\u00ebrburgut ia dha nj\u00eb grua tjet\u00ebr e bukur, energjike, ambicioze, inteligjente dhe e vendosur, Katerina e dyt\u00eb, e mbiquajtur m\u00eb von\u00eb me respekt Katerina e Madhe. Ajo kaloi me \u00ebmb\u00eblsi e eleganc\u00eb nga stili barok n\u00eb at\u00eb klasi\u00e7ist. Shpirtit t\u00eb fuqish\u00ebm t\u00eb Pjetrit te Madh ajo i shtoi inteligjenc\u00ebn dhe shijen e saj t\u00eb holl\u00eb dhe e b\u00ebri Europ\u00ebn t\u00eb shikonte e habitur mrekullin\u00eb arkitekturore e artistike q\u00eb po realizohej n\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburg. P\u00ebrve\u00e7 Pallatit t\u00eb Dimrit, luksi i shfrenuar dhe eleganca e qytetit perandorak v\u00ebrehen tek Kopshti Veror, ku pallati veror i Pjetrit t\u00eb Madh \u00ebsht\u00eb i rrethuar nga nj\u00eb park i mrekulluesh\u00ebm prej 12 hektar\u00ebsh, me gjelb\u00ebrimin ku t\u00eb gjitha stin\u00ebt shpalosin magjin\u00eb e ngjyrave t\u00eb tyre, me skulptura q\u00eb mahnisin me bukurin\u00eb e rrall\u00eb e me shatrivane q\u00eb p\u00ebrcjellin muzik\u00ebn qet\u00ebsuese t\u00eb ujit. Por nj\u00eb nga komplekset m\u00eb brilante e me nj\u00eb bukuri t\u00eb mahnitshme \u00ebsht\u00eb ai q\u00eb quhej oborri i Pjetrit, ose Peterhov. Kjo ishte rezidenza e pritjeve madh\u00ebshtore q\u00eb Pjetri i Madh me q\u00ebllim e nd\u00ebrtoi n\u00eb brigjet e Gjirit t\u00eb Finland\u00ebs, si nj\u00eb monument madh\u00ebshtor q\u00eb i tregonte bot\u00ebs shtrirjen e Rusis\u00eb mbi Detin Balltik. Ujvara e Madhe, shatrivanet e shumt\u00eb q\u00eb krijojn\u00eb nj\u00eb ylber t\u00eb p\u00ebrhersh\u00ebm, statujat e panum\u00ebrta, kop\u00ebshtet, pallatet q\u00eb harmonizohen si n\u00eb nj\u00eb t\u00eb vet\u00ebm, p\u00ebrb\u00ebjn\u00eb nj\u00eb nga magjit\u00eb m\u00eb t\u00eb m\u00ebdha t\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburgut. I nj\u00eb bukurie t\u00eb ve\u00e7ant\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb ai q\u00eb quhet Carskoje cello (fshati i carit). Edehe qytetari m\u00eb i privilegjuar do ta pranonte me d\u00ebshir\u00eb t\u00eb ishte fshatar i atij \u201cfshati\u201d. Kopshtet e mahnitshme dhe pallati madh\u00ebshtor i Katerin\u00ebs e p\u00ebrb\u00ebjn\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb fshat nj\u00eb margaritar t\u00eb arkitektur\u00ebs e natyr\u00ebs sanpiet\u00ebrburgase.
\nPjetri i Madh e Katerina e Madhe. Dy personazhe t\u00eb shquar, dy emra t\u00eb m\u00ebdhenj, q\u00eb q\u00ebndrojn\u00eb t\u00eb gdhendur pran\u00eb e pran\u00eb edhe n\u00eb shk\u00ebmbin e monumentit n\u00eb Sheshin e Dekabrist\u00ebve. Nj\u00eb legjend\u00eb ruse thot\u00eb se sa koh\u00eb monumenti i Pjetrit do t\u00eb q\u00ebndroj\u00eb n\u00eb k\u00ebmb\u00eb, Sanpiet\u00ebrburgu nuk do t\u00eb ket\u00eb mort. E koha ka treguar se si monumenti, ashtu edhe ky qytet, kan\u00eb ditur t\u2019u q\u00ebndrojn\u00eb rrebesheve t\u00eb historis\u00eb.<\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

T\u00eb q\u00ebllon t\u00eb d\u00ebgjosh mes turist\u00ebve per\u00ebndimor\u00eb t\u00eb thon\u00eb jo pa nj\u00ebfar\u00eb tendence: \u201cI bukur \u00ebsht\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburgu\u201d, por vet\u00ebm 300 vjet histori ka. \u00cbsht\u00eb e v\u00ebrtet\u00eb se qyteti n\u00eb vitin 2003 festoi 300-vjetorin e themelimit t\u00eb tij. Por, si p\u00ebr t\u2019i treguar bot\u00ebs se rr\u00ebnj\u00ebt historike t\u00eb k\u00ebsaj pjese t\u00eb Rusis\u00eb jan\u00eb diku m\u00eb thell\u00eb, Pjetri i Madh i kushtoi kujdes t\u00eb ve\u00e7ant\u00eb nderimit dhe lart\u00ebsimit t\u00eb figur\u00ebs s\u00eb nj\u00eb pararend\u00ebsi t\u00eb tij legjendar, princit t\u00eb Novgorodit, Aleksand\u00ebr Nevskij. Kur n\u00eb vitin 1240 suedez\u00ebt sulmuan tokat n\u00eb per\u00ebndim t\u00eb Nev\u00ebs, princi, q\u00eb kishte mosh\u00ebn 19 vje\u00e7, organizoi nj\u00eb q\u00ebndres\u00eb heroike dhe i mposhti armiqt\u00eb pik\u00ebrisht n\u00eb brigjet e Nev\u00ebs. N\u00eb nderim t\u00eb figur\u00ebs s\u00eb tij, n\u00eb vitin 1710, Pjetri i Madh dha urdh\u00ebr t\u00eb nd\u00ebrtohej nj\u00eb manastir me emrin \u201cTrinia e shenjt\u00eb\u201d. Aleksand\u00ebr Nevskij u shpall shenjtori i dyt\u00eb mbroj\u00ebs shpirt\u00ebror i qytetit, p\u00ebrkrah Sh\u00ebn Pjetrit. Atij i \u00ebsht\u00eb kushtuar edhe nj\u00ebra nga 300 urat m\u00eb t\u00eb m\u00ebdha t\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburgut. Nd\u00ebrsa n\u00eb nj\u00eb nga sallat e Pallatit t\u00eb Dimrit \u00ebsht\u00eb varri i i argjendt\u00eb i k\u00ebtij princi. P\u00ebr nd\u00ebrtimin e tij jan\u00eb p\u00ebrdorur nj\u00eb ton e gjysm\u00eb argjent, aq sa arrinte t\u00eb nxirrte n\u00eb at\u00eb koh\u00eb gjat\u00eb nj\u00eb viti nj\u00eb nga minierat e argjendit t\u00eb Rusis\u00eb.<\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

Padyshim, padurimi i turistit, kur vjen n\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburg, \u00ebsht\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb vizituar n\u00eb radh\u00eb t\u00eb par\u00eb Ermitazhin, nj\u00eb nga muzet\u00eb m\u00eb t\u00eb m\u00ebdhenj (n\u00eb mos m\u00eb i madhi) dhe m\u00eb t\u00eb pasurit n\u00eb bot\u00eb. I vendosur n\u00eb sallat e Pallatit t\u00eb Dimrit, t\u00eb Ermitazhit t\u00eb vjet\u00ebr e Ermitazhit t\u00eb ri,q\u00eb jan\u00eb pjes\u00eb n\u00eb vazhdim t\u00eb t\u00eb nj\u00ebjtit kompleks arkitekturor, ai t\u00ebrheq \u00e7do dit\u00eb me mij\u00ebra e mij\u00ebra dashamir\u00ebs t\u00eb artit nga t\u00eb gjith\u00eb kontinentet.
\nImpresionohesh q\u00eb kur hyn n\u00eb sheshin e paan\u00eb p\u00ebrpara pallatit. Kolona madh\u00ebshtore, por edhe aq fine e delikate e Aleksandrit, me lart\u00ebsin\u00eb 47.5 metra konsiderohet m\u00eb e larta n\u00eb bot\u00eb. Harku gjigand i Shtatmadhoris\u00eb plot gdhendje e skulptura t\u00eb mrekullueshme nga nj\u00ebra an\u00eb dhe nd\u00ebrtesa imponente e luksoze e pallateve q\u00eb p\u00ebrb\u00ebjn\u00eb muzeun, formojn\u00eb nj\u00eb t\u00ebr\u00ebsi harmonike, q\u00eb, n\u00eb shikim t\u00eb par\u00eb t\u00eb l\u00ebn\u00eb gati pa frym\u00eb.
\nPor emocionet m\u00eb t\u00eb shumta i provon hap pas hapi, duke kaluar nj\u00ebr\u00ebn pas tjetr\u00ebs sallat e shumta, ku luksi dhe bukuria e veprave t\u00eb artit jan\u00eb n\u00eb konkurenc\u00eb e nj\u00ebkoh\u00ebsisht n\u00eb harmoni t\u00eb pashoqe. Ndodhesh p\u00ebrpara kryeveprave bot\u00ebrore si \u201cDanaja\u201d e Rembrandit, apo veprave t\u00eb shum\u00eb autor\u00ebve t\u00eb m\u00ebdhenj si Da Vin\u00e7i, Mikelanxhelo,Raffaello,Tiziano,Giorgione,Rubens,VanGog,Goghen, Francisco Goya Matis,Renuar,Kandinskij e mij\u00ebra t\u00eb tjer\u00eb dhe t\u00eb duket si \u00ebnd\u00ebrr q\u00eb ke mund\u00ebsin\u00eb t\u2019i sodis\u00ebsh nga af\u00ebr.N\u00eb gjendjen e nj\u00eb dehjeje e gati trullosjeje totale kalon nga nj\u00ebra tek tjetra e t\u00eb vjen keq q\u00eb je n\u00ebn mors\u00ebn e koh\u00ebs dhe shpesh detyrohesh t\u2019u hedh\u00ebsh v\u00ebshtrime fluturimthi. Kryevepra e Rembrandit \u201cDanaja\u201d, n\u00eb vitin 1985 rrezikoi t\u00eb asgj\u00ebsohej p\u00ebrfundimisht. Dikush e goditi me thik\u00eb n\u00eb dy pika t\u00eb ndryshme dhe hodhi mbi t\u00eb acid sulfurik. D\u00ebmi ishte aq i madh sa n\u00eb fillim specialist\u00ebt menduan se nuk kishte rrug\u00eb tjet\u00ebr ve\u00e7 t\u00eb b\u00ebhej nj\u00eb kopje e re e saj. Por nuk do t\u00eb ishte m\u00eb dora e Rembrandit. At\u00ebher\u00eb iu vun\u00eb nj\u00eb pune restauruese q\u00eb zgjati 12 vjet, p\u00ebr ta sjell\u00eb thuajse plot\u00ebsisht n\u00eb gjendjen e saj t\u00eb para atentatit.
\nAutor\u00ebt jan\u00eb kaq t\u00eb shumt\u00eb sallave t\u00eb Ernitazhit e numri i veprave \u00ebsht\u00eb kaq i madh sa edhe pse i kushtojm\u00eb nj\u00eb dit\u00eb t\u00eb t\u00ebr\u00eb, nuk arrijm\u00eb t\u2019ia shohim fundin.Autor\u00eb si Picasaso,Goghen,Matis e ndonj\u00eb tjet\u00ebr jan\u00eb t\u00eb p\u00ebrfaq\u00ebsuar n\u00eb m\u00ebnyr\u00eb m\u00eb t\u00eb plot\u00eb e punimet e secilit z\u00ebn\u00eb 2-3 salla. Nd\u00ebrsa Da Vin\u00e7it, edhe pse ka vet\u00ebm dy punime,i \u00ebsht\u00eb l\u00ebn\u00eb n\u00eb dispozicion salla m\u00eb e madhe e m\u00eb luksoze e pallatit.E \u00ebsht\u00eb pik\u00ebrisht aty ku vizitorit i duhet t\u00eb rrij\u00eb t\u00eb pres\u00eb n\u00eb radh\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb soditur veprat e artistit t\u00eb madh italian me fam\u00eb bot\u00ebrore.
\nJan\u00eb t\u00eb shumta sallat e ambientet, ku luksi, mrekullit\u00eb arkitekturore, finesa e ndri\u00e7imit dhe e ekspozimit t\u00eb veprave t\u00eb artit, t\u00eb mahnisin me bukurit\u00eb e tyre. T\u00eb tilla jan\u00eb llozha e Raffaellos, Salla e Pjetrit, salla e malakiteve, shkalla e gal\u00ebs apo shkalla Iordanskaja, si\u00e7 quhet ndryshe.
\nDo t\u00eb ishte e pakuptimt\u00eb t\u00eb rrija e t\u00eb ndalesha n\u00eb emra veprash e autor\u00ebsh, sepse nuk do mjaftonin libra t\u00eb t\u00ebr\u00eb, por ndjen nj\u00eb k\u00ebnaq\u00ebsi t\u00eb pap\u00ebrshkrueshme kur shikon turmat e pafund t\u00eb vizitor\u00ebve q\u00eb formojne radh\u00ebt e gjata p\u00ebr t\u00eb hyr\u00eb n\u00eb muze.Ato vepra, q\u00eb i dhan\u00eb shk\u00eblqim t\u00eb ve\u00e7ant\u00eb bot\u00ebs e shpirtit njer\u00ebzor n\u00eb koh\u00ebn kur u krijuan, sot e k\u00ebsaj dite vazhdojn\u00eb t\u00eb transmetojn\u00eb pasuri t\u00eb panum\u00ebrta shpirt\u00ebrore e materiale n\u00eb dobi t\u00eb brezave. E t\u00eb mendosh se shum\u00eb nga autor\u00ebt e k\u00ebtyre veprave nuk e njoh\u00ebn luksin,madje shpesh punuan t\u00eb privuar edhe nga mjetet m\u00eb t\u00eb nevojshme t\u00eb jetes\u00ebs. Por ata kishin forc\u00ebn e pasurin\u00eb magjike t\u00eb talentit t\u00eb tyre, q\u00eb do t\u00eb vazhdojn\u00eb t\u2019u transmetojn\u00eb brezave at\u00eb q\u00eb asnj\u00eb forc\u00eb e madhe ekonomike nuk do t\u00eb arrinte ta b\u00ebnte sot. Ndaj kjo pasuri e pamatshme ruhet me rrept\u00ebsi si nga agjent\u00ebt atmosferik\u00eb, ashtu edhe nga \u00e7mendurit\u00eb e njer\u00ebzve. Me shp\u00ebrthimin e Luft\u00ebs s\u00eb Dyt\u00eb Bot\u00ebrore, meqen\u00ebse gjat\u00eb historis\u00eb Pallati i Dimrit ishte sulmuar shpesh, veprat e artit t\u00eb Ermitazhit u transferuan me trena dhe u fsheh\u00ebn n\u00eb Urale deri n\u00eb vitin 1945, q\u00eb t\u00eb mos p\u00ebsonin d\u00ebme nga lufta.<\/p>\n

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Kur mbyllet muzeu ka r\u00ebn\u00eb mbr\u00ebmja, por \u00ebsht\u00eb ende drit\u00eb. Marrim ur\u00ebn m\u00eb t\u00eb af\u00ebrt p\u00ebr t\u00eb dal\u00eb n\u00eb bregun tjet\u00ebr t\u00eb Nev\u00ebs. Synimi yn\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb t\u00eb arrijm\u00eb tek kryq\u00ebzori \u201cAurora\u201d, q\u00eb hartat na tregojn\u00eb se gjendet nga ajo an\u00eb. Sapo kalojm\u00eb ur\u00ebn dhe ndodhemi tek ajo q\u00eb quhet maja e ishullit Vasiljevskij, n\u00eb pik\u00ebn e bashkimit t\u00eb Nev\u00ebs s\u00eb Madhe me Nev\u00ebn e Vog\u00ebl, b\u00ebhemi pjes\u00ebmarr\u00ebs t\u00eb nj\u00eb feste t\u00eb v\u00ebrtet\u00eb. Njer\u00ebz t\u00eb g\u00ebzuar, kryesisht marinar\u00eb me uniformat e tyre t\u00eb bukura, t\u00eb rinj q\u00eb blejn\u00eb suvenire, nj\u00eb podium i p\u00ebrgatitur p\u00ebr koncert, radioja q\u00eb transmeton marshe e k\u00ebnge tipike luftarake ruse, ambienti i zbukuruar me flamuj,banderuola e afishe t\u00eb shumta. M\u00ebsojm\u00eb se \u00ebsht\u00eb festa e Flot\u00ebs s\u00eb Balltikut. Blejm\u00eb edhe ne ndonj\u00eb shall marinari si souvenir, p\u00ebrzihemi n\u00eb turm\u00ebn e g\u00ebzuar t\u00eb rus\u00ebve q\u00eb festojn\u00eb, pastaj ndalemi n\u00eb nj\u00eb lokal p\u00ebr t\u00eb b\u00ebr\u00eb nj\u00eb pauz\u00eb, me mendimin p\u00ebr t\u00eb shijuar di\u00e7ka nga kuzhina ruse. Lokali ishte mjaft i k\u00ebndsh\u00ebm. Por me p\u00ebrjashtim t\u00eb votk\u00ebs s\u00eb mrekullueshme q\u00eb nuk m\u00eb kishte r\u00ebn\u00eb rasti ta provoja tjet\u00ebrkund kaq t\u00eb mir\u00eb, nuk gjet\u00ebm asgj\u00eb tipike ruse q\u00eb t\u00eb na t\u00ebrhiqte v\u00ebmendjen. Qoft\u00eb aty,apo edhe n\u00eb disa restorante t\u00eb nj\u00eb niveli m\u00eb t\u00eb lart\u00eb, kureshtja jon\u00eb nuk u k\u00ebnaq. Kudo kamerieret t\u00eb sjellin menyt\u00eb ku gjen prodhime t\u00eb kuzhin\u00ebs italiane, francese apo t\u00eb vendeve t\u00eb tjera per\u00ebndimore. Q\u00eb, pastaj, jan\u00eb thjesht\u00eb nj\u00eb surrogato e atyre kuzhinave. Ne q\u00eb vijm\u00eb nga Italia, natyrisht q\u00eb nuk presim t\u00eb gjejm\u00eb fines\u00ebn e kuzhin\u00ebs italiane n\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburg. Por,si ne,edhe shum\u00eb turist\u00eb t\u00eb tjer\u00eb,jemi gati t\u00eb provojm\u00eb gj\u00ebra karakteristike t\u00eb kuzhin\u00ebs ruse, edhe pse p\u00ebr momentin mbase mund t\u00eb mos na shijojn\u00eb. Globalizmi ka b\u00ebr\u00eb q\u00eb n\u00eb qytetet e m\u00ebdha turistike kudo n\u00ebp\u00ebr Europ\u00eb, t\u00eb serviren meny p\u00ebr turist\u00eb, p\u00ebr t\u00eb ngr\u00ebn\u00eb di\u00e7ka t\u00eb shpejt\u00eb e p\u00ebr t\u00eb vazhduar vizit\u00ebn, nd\u00ebrsa p\u00ebr specialitetet e vendit duhet t\u00eb k\u00ebrkosh restorante n\u00eb guid\u00eb. Por natyrisht q\u00eb nuk ia vlen t\u00eb humbas\u00ebsh aq koh\u00eb, kur synimi yn\u00eb kryesor \u00ebsht\u00eb t\u00eb shijojm\u00eb bukurit\u00eb artistike e natyrore t\u00eb qytetit. Vazhdojm\u00eb udh\u00ebtimin p\u00ebrgjat\u00eb bregut t\u00eb Nev\u00ebs. Diku prapa krah\u00ebve t\u00eb k\u00ebshtjell\u00ebs s\u00eb Pjetrit e Palit \u00ebsht\u00eb muzeu i artileris\u00eb i qytetit. Mbi trotuar, n\u00eb hyrje t\u00eb muzeut, dy-tre tanke, pran\u00eb t\u00eb cil\u00ebve njer\u00ebzit ndalen e b\u00ebjn\u00eb fotografi. Ndalemi edhe ne. Nj\u00eb \u00e7ift t\u00eb rinjsh rus\u00eb na afrohen e k\u00ebrkojn\u00eb t\u00eb b\u00ebjn\u00eb fotografi me ne, pasi e kuptojn\u00eb q\u00eb jemi t\u00eb huaj. Djaloshi \u00ebsht\u00eb marinar. Kur ne duam t\u00eb b\u00ebjm\u00eb foto me shallat e marinarit q\u00eb kemi bler\u00eb, ai vjen drejt nesh e na ofron kapelen dhe shallin e tij. -Kjo \u00ebsht\u00eb uniforma e v\u00ebrtet\u00eb e marinarit rus, -thot\u00eb ai me krenari. E k\u00ebt\u00eb krenari tipike ai do ta shfaqte n\u00eb m\u00ebnyr\u00eb simpatike edhe kur nderonte si ushtarak nd\u00ebrsa dilte n\u00eb fotografi me ne.
\nArrijm\u00eb tek kryq\u00ebzori Aurora me nj\u00eb emocion t\u00eb madh, por na pret nj\u00eb zhg\u00ebnjim i vog\u00ebl.Ne prisnim t\u00eb shikonim nj\u00eb anije gjigande luftarake, q\u00eb me t\u00eb sht\u00ebnat e saj n\u00eb vitin l917 dridhi bot\u00ebn, duke goditur Pallatin e Dimrit e duke b\u00ebr\u00eb q\u00eb qeveria provizore t\u00eb binte. Por ajo ishte vet\u00ebm pak m\u00eb e madhe se nj\u00eb anije e sotme peshkimi. Disa gryka t\u00eb vogla topi, t\u00eb cilat me predhat e tyre sh\u00ebnuan fitoren e revolucionit t\u00eb Tetorit,duke b\u00ebr\u00eb at\u00eb kthes\u00eb t\u00eb madhe n\u00eb histori, q\u00eb do t\u00eb \u00e7onte dal\u00ebngadal\u00eb n\u00eb transformimin e nj\u00eb t\u00eb gjasht\u00ebs s\u00eb globit n\u00eb \u201cperandorin\u00eb\u201d fam\u00ebkeqe komuniste, duke e izoluar nga pjesa tjet\u00ebr e bot\u00ebs. Megjithat\u00eb anija \u00ebsht\u00eb e mir\u00ebmbajtur.Ajo sh\u00ebrben sot si nje relike e vendosur n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb kthes\u00eb t\u00eb lumit Neva dhe turist\u00ebt e shumt\u00eb edhe k\u00ebtu b\u00ebjn\u00eb foto e blejn\u00eb souvenire, q\u00eb lidhen pik\u00ebrisht me kryq\u00ebzorin e famsh\u00ebm.<\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

Dita tjet\u00ebr q\u00eblloi e h\u00ebn\u00eb dhe t\u00ebr\u00eb muzet\u00eb ishin mbyllur. Dol\u00ebm n\u00ebp\u00ebr rrug\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb par\u00eb jet\u00ebn e zakonshme t\u00eb qytetit. Hyjm\u00eb n\u00eb nj\u00eb nga tregjet, ku ve\u00e7 \u00e7mimeve te larta asgj\u00eb tjet\u00ebr nuk t\u00eb b\u00ebnte p\u00ebrshtypje. Pas disa vitesh nga ky udh\u00ebtim Zhani do m\u00eb thoshte: -Si nuk u kujtove t\u00eb m\u00eb bleje nj\u00eb samovar (\u00e7ajnikun e famsh\u00ebm rus) kur ishim n\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburg\u2026Faktikisht, sa ishim atje nuk u kujtuam, se ishte ver\u00eb, por mbetet nj\u00eb nga obligimet e mia q\u00eb n\u00eb rastin m\u00eb t\u00eb par\u00eb t\u00eb porosis nj\u00eb samovar q\u00eb t\u00eb ma sjellin nga Rusia.
\nSh\u00ebtisim buz\u00eb kanaleve t\u00eb ndryshme t\u00eb Nev\u00ebs, plot ura t\u00eb zbukuruara me skulptura t\u00eb ndryshme. Na kujtohet disi Venezia, por k\u00ebtu p\u00ebrmasat e kanaleve e urave jan\u00eb gjigante. Ngado nd\u00ebrtesa q\u00eb t\u00ebrheqin me arkitektur\u00ebn e tyre. Rruga kryesore dhe m\u00eb e vizituara e qytetit quhet Prospektiva Nevskij. Ajo \u00ebsht\u00eb e mbushur n\u00eb t\u00ebr\u00eb gjat\u00ebsin\u00eb e saj me nd\u00ebrtesa t\u00eb tilla. Tep\u00ebr e populluar e n\u00eb gjall\u00ebri dit\u00eb e nat\u00eb. Hypim n\u00eb autobuz\u00ebt e vegj\u00ebl e t\u00eb mbushur plot e p\u00ebrplot me udh\u00ebtar\u00eb, ku ti paguan por askush nuk ta zgjat bilet\u00ebn. Me taksit\u00eb duhet t\u00eb kesh kujdes sepse t\u00eb b\u00ebjn\u00eb t\u00eb paguash t\u00eb pakt\u00ebn dyfishin e asaj q\u00eb kushton n\u00eb t\u00eb v\u00ebrtet\u00eb.Vet\u00ebm kur iu drejtohesh n\u00eb rusisht, jan\u00eb gati t\u00eb b\u00ebjn\u00eb pazar e ta ulin \u00e7mimin. Edhe n\u00eb restorante \u00ebsht\u00eb mir\u00eb t\u00eb mbash p\u00ebrher\u00eb rubla t\u00eb vogla me vete, sepse p\u00ebrgjith\u00ebsisht nuk t\u00eb kthejn\u00eb kusur e t\u00eb mbajn\u00eb m\u00eb shum\u00eb nga bakshishi q\u00eb ke menduar t\u00eb jap\u00ebsh. Natyrisht, n\u00eb nj\u00eb qytet, q\u00eb megjith\u00ebse \u00ebsht\u00eb i dyti n\u00eb Rusi p\u00ebr prodhim industrial shum\u00eb veta jetojn\u00eb me turizmin, fenomene t\u00eb tilla jan\u00eb t\u00eb kuptueshme e, natyrisht, nuk jan\u00eb k\u00ebto q\u00eb mund t\u00eb prishin k\u00ebnaq\u00ebsin\u00eb e q\u00ebndrimit n\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburg. Bile, kur i mendon pastaj,t\u00eb vjen vetvetiu nj\u00eb buz\u00ebqeshje.
\nNd\u00ebrtesat q\u00eb na t\u00ebrheqin m\u00eb shum\u00eb v\u00ebmendjen jan\u00eb kishat e katedralet.Shkojm\u00eb t\u00eb vizitojm\u00eb disa prej tyre. Kisha e ringjalljes s\u00eb Krishtit, nj\u00eb nga simbolet e Sanpiet\u00ebrburgut, t\u00eb habit me shum\u00ebllojshm\u00ebrin\u00eb e formave e t\u00eb ngjyrave, q\u00eb e b\u00ebjn\u00eb at\u00eb nj\u00eb monument unikal. Por edhe historia e saj \u00ebsht\u00eb e ve\u00e7ant\u00eb e dramatike. M\u00eb par\u00eb ajo quhej\u201dShp\u00ebtimi i gjakut t\u00eb derdhur\u201d. N\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb pik\u00eb n\u00eb breg t\u00eb Nev\u00ebs n\u00eb vitin 1881 nj\u00eb terrorist, q\u00eb i p\u00ebrkiste organizat\u00ebs \u201cVullneti i popullit\u201d vrau perandorin Aleksandri i dyt\u00eb. N\u00eb kujtim t\u00eb tij u ngrit dy vite m\u00eb von\u00eb kjo kish\u00eb, e nd\u00ebrtuar sipas stilit t\u00eb arkitektur\u00ebs ruse e q\u00eb p\u00ebrfaq\u00ebson edhe sot nj\u00eb nga realizimet m\u00eb t\u00eb ve\u00e7anta t\u00eb k\u00ebsaj arkitekture.
\nM\u00eb tej Katedralja e Madon\u00ebs s\u00eb Kazanit, me kupol\u00ebn madh\u00ebshtore e form\u00ebn e harkuar t\u00eb fasad\u00ebs ballore p\u00ebrb\u00ebn nj\u00eb nga realizimet m\u00eb t\u00eb bukura arkitekturore t\u00eb Prospektiva Nevskij. Katedralja e Sant Isakut, me kolonat madh\u00ebshtore n\u00eb t\u00eb kat\u00ebr an\u00ebt e saj e ambientin p\u00ebrreth, \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb nga pikat m\u00eb t\u00ebrheq\u00ebse t\u00eb qytetit.T\u00eb vizituarit e k\u00ebtyre objekteve, k\u00ebrkon shum\u00eb koh\u00eb. Por k\u00ebrkon edhe t\u2019i b\u00ebsh llogarit\u00eb mir\u00eb. N\u00eb secil\u00ebn prej tyre duhet t\u00eb paguash si \u00e7mim bilete t\u00eb nj\u00ebjtin q\u00eb paguan p\u00ebr t\u00eb vizituar Ermitazhin. E n\u00ebse do q\u00eb t\u00eb p\u00ebrdor\u00ebsh edhe videokameran e makin\u00ebn fotografike duhet t\u00eb paguash mbi 20 euro apo 30$ p\u00ebr secilin objekt. K\u00ebshtuq\u00eb n\u00eb morin\u00eb e monumenteve t\u00eb duhet t\u00eb seleksionosh e t\u00eb zgjedh\u00ebsh ata m\u00eb kryesor\u00ebt p\u00ebr t\u2019i vizituar edhe brenda.<\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

Sanpiet\u00ebrburgu \u00ebsht\u00eb qyteti i Pushkinit. I lindur n\u00eb af\u00ebrsi t\u00eb Fshatit t\u00eb Carit, ai u rrit n\u00eb ambientet aristokratike t\u00eb familjes perandorake, u formua me kultur\u00eb franceze (e njihte fr\u00ebngjishten m\u00eb mir\u00eb se rusishten) dhe n\u00eb ambientet e k\u00ebtij qyteti arriti t\u00eb b\u00ebhej poeti m\u00eb i madh i gjith\u00eb Rusis\u00eb. Emrin e tij e gjen gati kudo. N\u00eb Prospektiva Nevskij \u00ebsht\u00eb kafeneja Wulf, ku ai shkonte gjithnj\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb pir\u00eb kafen\u00eb e ku takohej me artist\u00eb e intelektual\u00eb t\u00eb tjer\u00eb t\u00eb qytetit. M\u00eb tej \u00ebsht\u00eb teatri q\u00eb mban emrin e tij. Apartamenti ku ai jetoi vitet e fundit n\u00eb rrug\u00ebn Mojka buz\u00eb Nev\u00ebs dhe ku vdiq pas plagosjes n\u00eb duel, \u00ebsht\u00eb muze q\u00eb vizitohet nga turist\u00eb prej t\u00eb gjitha an\u00ebve t\u00eb globit. Aty \u00ebsht\u00eb salla e tij e pun\u00ebs me bibliotek\u00ebn shum\u00eb t\u00eb madhe, dhomat e ndenjes e ambientet ku priste miqt\u00eb, disa nga objektet e tij personale (shum\u00eb t\u00eb tjera jan\u00eb d\u00ebrguar n\u00eb sht\u00ebpin\u00eb e tij muze n\u00eb Mosk\u00eb), nj\u00eb konfeksion me arm\u00ebt e tij etj. Ai ishte poet i dashuruar n\u00eb oborrin perandorak dhe n\u00eb kopshtin e pallatit luksos t\u00eb Katerin\u00ebs, n\u00eb nj\u00eb pejsazh poetik mes gjelb\u00ebrimit, ka nj\u00eb nga monumentet e tij.
\nSanpiet\u00ebrburgu me bukurit\u00eb e tij, me klim\u00ebn e ambientet t\u00ebrhiqte shum\u00eb artist\u00eb, jo vet\u00ebm shkrimtar\u00eb, por edhe muzikant\u00eb, piktor\u00eb, balerin\u00eb nga e gjith\u00eb Rusia. K\u00ebtu jetoi p\u00ebr shum\u00eb koh\u00eb e vdiq nj\u00eb nga kompozitor\u00ebt m\u00eb t\u00eb m\u00ebdhenj rus\u00eb, \u00c7ajkovskij. N\u00eb vitet e fundit t\u00eb tij jetoi e punoi k\u00ebtu shkrimtari tjet\u00ebr i madh, Dostojevskij. Apartamenti ku ai punoi derisa u nda nga jeta e ku shkroi romanin e tij t\u00eb fundit \u201cV\u00ebllez\u00ebrit Karamazov\u201d \u00ebsht\u00eb muze. N\u00eb varrez\u00ebn e artist\u00ebve n\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburg prehen edhe kompozitor\u00eb t\u00eb tjer\u00eb t\u00eb njohur si Musorgskij, Glinka, Rimskij-Korsakov, v\u00ebllez\u00ebrit pianist\u00eb Rubinshtejn, si dhe balerin\u00eb, piktor\u00eb e artist\u00eb t\u00eb tjer\u00eb.
\nN\u00eb vitet e fundit t\u00eb shekullit t\u00eb 19-t\u00eb e vitet e para t\u00eb shekullit t\u00eb 20-t\u00eb jeta kulturore artistike e Sanpiet\u00ebrburgut filloi t’ i ngjaj\u00eb pak stilit liberty, pak a shum\u00eb si n\u00eb ambientet pariziane. Shkrimtar\u00ebt, artist\u00ebt dhe intelektual\u00ebt takoheshin n\u00eb or\u00ebt e \u00e7ajit dhe mbr\u00ebmjeve n\u00ebp\u00ebr lokale e sallone, organizonin diskutime, koncerte e ekspozita, duke e gjall\u00ebruar shum\u00eb jet\u00ebn kulturore t\u00eb qytetit. Epiqendra dhe perandoresha e pakuror\u00ebzuar e k\u00ebsaj jete t\u00ebrheq\u00ebse e t\u00eb bukur ishte b\u00ebr\u00eb poetja rebele Ana Ahmatova. Populli i Sanpiet\u00ebrburgut ishte i dashuruar pas saj. Ai i ka dedikuar me dashuri disa monumente n\u00eb rrug\u00eb e sheshe t\u00eb ndryshme t\u00eb qytetit dhe sht\u00ebpia ku jetoi p\u00ebr 30 vjet \u00ebsht\u00eb nd\u00ebr muzet\u00eb m\u00eb t\u00eb vizituar. Tridhjet\u00eb vitet q\u00eb vazhdoi pak a shum\u00eb kjo atmosfer\u00eb quheshin \u201cshekulli i argjendt\u00eb\u201d, q\u00eb do t\u00eb nd\u00ebrpritej nga era e revolucioneve, s\u00eb pari ai i vitit 1905 e pastaj Lufta e par\u00eb bot\u00ebrore dhe revolucioni i tetorit, i vitit 1917.
\nPik\u00ebrisht n\u00eb vitin 1905 n\u00eb jet\u00ebn e oborrit rus hyri si papritur nj\u00eb figur\u00eb e \u00e7uditshme, misteriose, por shum\u00eb karizmatike, prifti muzhik i ardhur nga Siberia, Rasputini. Figur\u00eb q\u00eb i \u00ebsht\u00eb kushtuar aq vend n\u00eb let\u00ebrsi e n\u00eb kinematografi. Njeriu me v\u00ebshtrim magnetik q\u00eb hipnotizoi carin Nikolla i dyt\u00eb dhe caresh\u00ebn Aleksandra dhe u b\u00eb p\u00ebr 11 vjet figura m\u00eb influencuese n\u00eb familjen e carit, n\u00eb pallatet luksoze e n\u00eb vet\u00eb politik\u00ebn ruse. Ai arriti t\u00eb shk\u00ebpuste nga thonjt\u00eb e vdekjes princin trash\u00ebgimtar, Aleksej, q\u00eb vuante nga emofilia. Asnj\u00eb mjek apo grup mjek\u00ebsh nuk ia kishte dal\u00eb ta b\u00ebnte k\u00ebt\u00eb. Kurse ai ia arriti e p\u00ebr k\u00ebt\u00eb u krijua idea q\u00eb ai zot\u00ebronte fuqi magjike paranormale. Muzhiku siberian shum\u00eb shpejt iu p\u00ebrshtat jet\u00ebs s\u00eb oborrit, p\u00ebrvet\u00ebsoi m\u00ebnyrat e rafinuara t\u00eb jetes\u00ebs, t\u00eb veshjes e t\u00eb jetes\u00ebs dhe u b\u00eb kanakari i damave m\u00eb t\u00eb shquara t\u00eb aristokracis\u00eb ruse. Influenca e tij tek cari dhe caresha ishte aq e madhe sa ata e th\u00ebrrisnin miku yn\u00eb, madje spostoi edhe autoritetin e figur\u00ebs s\u00eb kryeministrit.
\nKjo gj\u00eb zgjoi zilin\u00eb e urrejtjen e kabinetit qeveritar, t\u00eb disa ministrave, q\u00eb i ngrit\u00ebn nj\u00eb kurth p\u00ebr ta zhdukur. Ministri Jusupov, me dy-tre t\u00eb tjer\u00eb, e ftoi n\u00eb sht\u00ebpin\u00eb e tij, duke i premtuar q\u00eb do ta njihte edhe me nj\u00eb dam\u00eb elegante, praktikisht gruan e tij, (e cila at\u00eb nat\u00eb faktikisht do ishte jasht\u00eb qytetit). Gjat\u00eb mbr\u00ebmjes i ofruan t\u00eb pinte madera, nj\u00eb ver\u00eb e preferuar prej Rasputinit. Brenda i kishin hedhur sasira cianuri t\u00eb fuqish\u00ebm q\u00eb do vrisnin n\u00eb vend edhe nj\u00eb elefant. Ai pinte e nuk donte t’ ia dinte. Madje pati momente q\u00eb u kthjellua edhe m\u00eb shum\u00eb. At\u00ebher\u00eb vendos\u00ebn ta asgj\u00ebsonin duke e goditur me pistolet\u00eb. Edhe i plagosur ai gjeti forca dhe u turr t\u00eb ikte. E ndoq\u00ebn jasht\u00eb n\u00ebp\u00ebr d\u00ebbor\u00eb, e q\u00eblluan prap\u00eb e prap\u00eb dhe pastaj trupin e tij e hodh\u00ebn n\u00eb Nev\u00eb. Kur u b\u00eb autopsia n\u00eb trupin e tij nuk dukeshin shenja cianuri. Nj\u00eb mister tjet\u00ebr i k\u00ebtij njeriu mister.
\nVrasja e tij u prit me nj\u00ebfar\u00eb indiference nga cari. Mbase nga q\u00eb kishin filluar t\u00eb qarkullonin z\u00ebra t\u00eb nj\u00ebfar\u00eb afrimi t\u00eb dyshimt\u00eb t\u00eb caresh\u00ebs me Rasputinin. Nuk u b\u00ebn\u00eb hetime. Madje Jusupovit iu dha nj\u00eb nga pallatet luksoze t\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburgut.
\nRasputini iku kur Rusia ishte n\u00eb kulmin e ngjarjeve luftarake e t\u00eb revolucionit.- N\u00eb at\u00eb m\u00ebnyr\u00eb ikjeje t\u00eb Rasputinit t\u00eb plagosur, duke u zvarritur n\u00ebp\u00ebr d\u00ebbor\u00eb,- shkruan gazetari italian Ferruccio Gattuso,- ishte vet\u00eb Rusia q\u00eb po ikte, Rusia e vjet\u00ebr tashm\u00eb jasht\u00eb koh\u00ebs, e kacavarur n\u00eb nj\u00eb bot\u00eb q\u00eb historia po e flakte tej.
\nU p\u00ebrmbys perandoria dhe pushteti i car\u00ebve dhe erdhi \u201ccari i ri\u201d, Partia bolshevike. Lenini, ia hoqi Sanpiet\u00ebrburgut edhe emrin e kryeqytetit dhe b\u00ebri t\u00eb till\u00eb Mosk\u00ebn. E, p\u00ebr m\u00eb tep\u00ebr, i vuri emrin e tij qytetit, duke e quajtur Leningrad.<\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

Nj\u00eb k\u00ebnaq\u00ebsi m\u00eb vete n\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburg p\u00ebrb\u00ebn udh\u00ebtimi me metro.Impressionuese kur fillon zbritjen n\u00ebn dhe me shkall\u00ebn e l\u00ebvizshme, s\u00eb cil\u00ebs nuk i shihet fundi.T\u00eb duket sikur do t\u00eb zbres\u00ebsh n\u00eb qend\u00ebr t\u00eb tok\u00ebs si n\u00eb romanet e Zhyl Vernit. Natyrisht, duhet t\u00eb arrish n\u00ebn nivelin e shtratit t\u00eb Nev\u00ebs, q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb lum\u00eb i thell\u00eb dhe i lundruesh\u00ebm.Vet\u00ebm duke kaluar nga stacioni n\u00eb stacion, n\u00ebp\u00ebr trenat ku nuk gjen vend per t\u2019u ulur, e kupton sa e madhe \u00ebsht\u00eb popullsia e qytetit dhe se \u00e7far\u00eb gjall\u00ebri l\u00ebvizjeje ka. Stacionet jan\u00eb t\u00eb bukur e shum\u00eb t\u00eb past\u00ebr. Kur je n\u00eb shkall\u00ebn e l\u00ebvizshme v\u00ebren se njer\u00ebzit vendosen n\u00eb njer\u00ebn an\u00eb t\u00eb saj, duke e l\u00ebn\u00eb gjysm\u00ebn tjet\u00ebr t\u00eb shkall\u00ebs bosh. Arsyen e kuptuam vet\u00ebm kur pam\u00eb se kishte plot nga ata q\u00eb nxitonin dhe e konsideronin t\u00eb ngadalt\u00eb l\u00ebvizjen e shkall\u00ebs. Ata vraponin, shpesh duke i kap\u00ebrcyer shkall\u00ebt nga dy e nga tri. Nxitimi tipik i njeriut rus, q\u00eb dikur m\u00eb kishte b\u00ebr\u00eb aq p\u00ebrshtypje te drama \u201cOr\u00ebt e Kremlinit\u201d.
\nAf\u00ebr mesnat\u00ebs po i afroheshim hotelit dhe u kujtuam t\u00eb futeshim n\u00eb nj\u00eb dyqan p\u00ebr t\u00eb bler\u00eb votk\u00eb. Kur ia tham\u00eb shit\u00ebsit, ai na tregoi nj\u00eb kartel\u00eb ku shkruhej se pas or\u00ebs 23 ishte e ndaluar shitja e pijeve alkoolike. N\u00eb nj\u00eb kuptim na erdhi keq, por nga ana tjet\u00ebr menduam se sa mir\u00eb do t\u00eb ishte t\u00eb vihej nj\u00eb ligj i till\u00eb edhe n\u00eb Itali, ku pijet alkoolike n\u00eb diskoteka shiten deri n\u00eb 3 t\u00eb m\u00ebngjesit, duke b\u00ebr\u00eb q\u00eb n\u00eb \u00e7do fund jave t\u00eb ket\u00eb dhjetra viktima t\u00eb rinjsh nga aksidentet mobilistike gjat\u00eb kthimit nga diskoteka. Por keqardhja jon\u00eb zgjati vet\u00ebm p\u00ebr nj\u00eb \u00e7ast, pasi shit\u00ebsi na b\u00ebri shenj\u00eb t\u00eb prisnim. Pasi mbaroi me klient\u00ebt e tjer\u00eb,i tha dikujt q\u00eb t\u00eb mbyllte der\u00ebn.
\n-Sa shishe doni?-na u drejtua pasi dera u mbyll.
\nMor\u00ebm aq sa desh\u00ebm t\u00eb merrnim dhe dol\u00ebm. Njeriu q\u00eb kishte mbyllur der\u00ebn ishte n\u00eb uniform\u00eb ushtarake. M\u00ebsuam se ai dhe shit\u00ebsi ishin v\u00ebllez\u00ebr dhe se administronin nj\u00eb num\u00ebr dyqanesh p\u00ebrgjat\u00eb asaj rruge.<\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

Dit\u00ebn tjet\u00ebr kishim vendosur t\u00eb vizitonim muzeun e rezistenc\u00ebs s\u00eb popullit t\u00eb Leningradit, n\u00eb periudh\u00ebn e Luft\u00ebs s\u00eb dyt\u00eb bot\u00ebrore. Dihet nga historia q\u00eb Leningradi luftoi p\u00ebr 900 dit\u00eb n\u00ebn nj\u00eb rrethim t\u00eb eg\u00ebr t\u00eb nazist\u00ebve gjerman\u00eb, pasi Hitleri kishte vendosur ta zhdukte nga harta si qytet. Q\u00ebndresa qe e jasht\u00ebzakonshme, n\u00eb kushtet e nj\u00eb urie q\u00eb \u00e7do dit\u00eb merrte qindra jet\u00eb njer\u00ebzish. Para luft\u00ebs Leningradi num\u00ebronte 3 milion\u00eb banor\u00eb. Kur mbaroi lufta, kishin mbijetuar vet\u00ebm 600 mij\u00eb.U desh t\u00eb kalonin mbi 30 vjet q\u00eb ai t\u00eb arrinte numrin e viteve t\u00eb paraluft\u00ebs. Nd\u00ebrsa sot ka 4.5 milion\u00eb banor\u00eb. Hitleri nuk e zhduku dot Leningradin dhe banor\u00ebt e tij nuk e lan\u00eb qytetin t\u00eb binte n\u00eb duart e armikut, duke ia prer\u00eb ushtris\u00eb naziste marrshimin drejt Mosk\u00ebs.
\nNa u desh shum\u00eb koh\u00eb gjer ta gjenim muzeun. Mjaft nga ata q\u00eb i pyesnim, megjith\u00ebse banor\u00eb vendas, dukej sikur nuk kuptonin se \u00e7far\u00eb po k\u00ebrkonim. M\u00eb s\u00eb fundi,me ndihm\u00ebn e hartave, arrit\u00ebm. Dhe zhg\u00ebnjimi qe total. Nj\u00eb nd\u00ebrtes\u00eb e vog\u00ebl dykat\u00ebshe, e pamir\u00ebmbajtur, nj\u00eb kartel\u00eb ku mezi lexohej emri i muzeut dhe nj\u00eb port\u00eb e vjet\u00ebr prej druri, q\u00eb dukej se do binte nga \u00e7asti n\u00eb \u00e7ast. Pak vizitor\u00eb q\u00eb vinin shikonin anash sikur i ndiqte ndokush. Muzeu administrohej nga dy gra t\u00eb moshuara, q\u00eb dukej se ishin aty vet\u00ebm p\u00ebr t\u2019i shtuar di\u00e7ka pensionit t\u00eb tyre. Brenda pak ambiente, pak stenda e pak relikte. M\u00eb shum\u00eb pllakate e materiale t\u00eb tjera t\u00eb karakterit propagandistik. N\u00eb sfond muzik\u00eb me marrshet luftarake sovjetike. Nj\u00eb helmet\u00eb e shpuar me pre\u00e7izion n\u00eb lule t\u00eb ballit, q\u00eb i ngjan m\u00eb shum\u00eb nj\u00eb ekzekutimi se nj\u00eb renieje n\u00eb front, nj\u00eb racion buke prej mielli t\u00eb p\u00ebrzier me tallash. 200 gram\u00eb, aq ishte racioni ditor i mbrojt\u00ebsve t\u00eb Leningradit. M\u00eb tej nj\u00eb cop\u00eb zami, nga ai q\u00eb p\u00ebrdorej p\u00ebr t\u00eb ngjitur letrat n\u00eb muret e dhomave. Edhe ai ishte pjes\u00eb e ushqimit ditor, bashk\u00eb me rripat e \u00e7do gj\u00eb tjet\u00ebr l\u00ebkure, q\u00eb ziehej e hahej. Banor\u00ebt kishin arritur t\u00eb hanin deri edhe torf\u00ebn e k\u00ebnetave p\u00ebr t\u00eb mbijetuar.
\nM\u00ebsojm\u00eb se pas luft\u00ebs, n\u00eb vitin l948, Stalini, n\u00eb vazhdim t\u00eb represioneve t\u00eb tij, pushkatoi ish-drejtorin e k\u00ebtij muzeu dhe e mbylli institucionin. 37 mij\u00eb reliktet e tij u asgj\u00ebsuan apo u shp\u00ebrndan\u00eb. Synimi i Stalinit ishte t\u00eb err\u00ebsonte rezistenc\u00ebn heroike t\u00eb 900 dit\u00ebve t\u00eb Leningradit, p\u00ebr t\u00eb himnizuar betej\u00ebn e Stalingradit. Kjo e shpjegon varf\u00ebrin\u00eb e muzeut dhe ndrojtjen e pavullnetshme p\u00ebr ta vizituar at\u00eb. Edhe 50 vjet pas vdekjes s\u00eb Stalinit, dukej sikur njer\u00ebzit i trembeshin ende ndjekjes s\u00eb tij.
\nVet\u00ebm pas rr\u00ebzimit t\u00eb komunizmit muzeu u hap n\u00eb p\u00ebrmasa t\u00eb zvog\u00ebluara, me ato materiale q\u00eb u dhuruan nga ish-mbrojt\u00ebsit e Leningradit q\u00eb i kishin shp\u00ebtuar represionit stalinist.
\nPas rr\u00ebzimit t\u00eb komunizmit, Sanpiet\u00ebrburgu rifitoi emrin dhe shk\u00eblqimin e tij n\u00eb syt\u00eb e bot\u00ebs. Presidenti Putin, q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb nga ky qytet, ka k\u00ebmb\u00ebngulur p\u00ebr t\u00eb dh\u00ebn\u00eb fonde q\u00eb Sanpiet\u00ebrburgu t\u00eb zhvillohet m\u00eb tej. Gjat\u00eb fushat\u00ebs elektorale p\u00ebr president ai u b\u00ebri edhe nj\u00eb premtim tjet\u00ebr bashk\u00ebqytetar\u00ebve: q\u00eb ta rishpallte Sanpiet\u00ebrburgun kryeqytet t\u00eb Rusis\u00eb, si\u00e7 ka qen\u00eb dikur. Si\u00e7 dihet, pas fitores s\u00eb zgjedhjeve shum\u00eb premtime elektorale harrohen.<\/p>\n

Por populli nuk harron. Edhe at\u00ebher\u00eb kur fal.<\/p>\n

Ndue Lazri<\/strong><\/p>\n

D\u00ebrgoi Gjin Musa<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

NDUE LAZRI – Sh\u00ebnime udhetimi nga Sanpiet\u00ebrburgu – Kur po afrohej 30-vjetori i martes\u00ebs me bashk\u00ebshorten time, Zhanin, po mendoja p\u00ebr ndonj\u00eb surpriz\u00eb t\u00eb ve\u00e7ant\u00eb. U kujtova q\u00eb n\u00eb vitet e rinis\u00eb son\u00eb t\u00eb dy ishim t\u00eb dashuruar me let\u00ebrsin\u00eb, artin e kultur\u00ebn ruse. Tek lexonim kujtimet e Kadares\u00eb dhe krijimet e tij p\u00ebr ambientet […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nN\u00cb BUKURIT\u00cb E KRYEQYTETIT T\u00cb VERIUT - FjALA e LIR\u00cb - Arkivi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/fjala.info\/2009-2015\/ne-bukurite-e-kryeqytetit-te-veriut\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"sq_AL\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"N\u00cb BUKURIT\u00cb E KRYEQYTETIT T\u00cb VERIUT - FjALA e LIR\u00cb - Arkivi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"NDUE LAZRI – Sh\u00ebnime udhetimi nga Sanpiet\u00ebrburgu – Kur po afrohej 30-vjetori i martes\u00ebs me bashk\u00ebshorten time, Zhanin, po mendoja p\u00ebr ndonj\u00eb surpriz\u00eb t\u00eb ve\u00e7ant\u00eb. 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